2024 Alaska Road Trip (Week 3)

AlaskaCanadaRoad-Trip
Written By Steven Ginn

This journal posting chronicles Week 3 (Sunday July 7th - Saturday July 13th) of a road trip to Alaska and back with Diane, Kenny and Deneen.

Index for Week 3

Day 15 - Sunday July 7th

Today was a travel day from Liard River Hot Springs Campground, BC to Big Creek Campground, YT, we drove a total of 172 miles / 277 km.

Sunrise was at 4:22 AM in Liard River Hots Springs Campground, BC and sunset was at 10:58 PM in Big Creek Campground, YT.

As mentioned previously, Liard River Hot Springs Campground has an electric fence around it. They are very serious about it and also have a strip cleared all the way around so they can see what animal is trying to get through. It feels a bit like a camp on some alien world where there are dangerous animals wanting to get in. Which is not far off…

Electric Fence, Liard River Campground, Liard River, British Columbia, Canada

As a travel day, we saw a lot of highway.

Alaska Highway (Hwy 97), Northern Rockies, British Columbia, Canada

And more highway, although in the case below it was a brief period where the Alaska Highway crossed over, very briefly, into the Yukon Territories before crossing back into British Columbia.

Alaska Highway (Hwy 97), Yukon Territories, Canada

A few more bison. We also saw six bears today we but did not get any good photos of them, partly because we have seen so many that we don’t slow down to take pictures of them anymore.

Bison, Alaska Highway (Hwy 97), British Columbia, Canada

At the 60th Parallel, we crossed for real into the Yukon Territories and the Alaska Highway changed from Hwy 97 to Hwy 1.

60th Parallel, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1/97), Boarder of British Columbia and the Yukon Territories, Canada

Since the Liard River Hot Springs Campground did not have any RV dump stations, we stopped at a park in Watson Lake, YT. It was a pretty primitive RV dump station, but I can’t argue with the price since it was free.

RV Dump Station, Wye Lake Park, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), Watson Lake, Yukon Territories, Canada

One of the more famous spots along the Alaska Highway is the Sign Post Forest in Watson Lake.

Sign Post Forest, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), Watson Lake, Yukon Territories, Canada

We continued on past Watson Lake headed northwest.

Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), Yukon Territories, Canada

We stopped for the night at Big Creek Campground. It is a first come first serve campground and we were glad to get there in the early afternoon since by the late afternoon it was full of large rigs.

For dinner we had ravioli and corn.

Big Creek Campground, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), northwest of Watson Lake, Yukon Territories, Canada

Day 16 - Monday July 8th

Today we went from Big Creek Campground northwest of Watson Lake, YT, to Wolf Creek Campground just southeast of Whitehorse, YT. Including some errands into Whitehorse, we drove a total of 277 miles/446 km.

Sunrise at Big Creek Campground was at 4:31 AM, and sunset at Wolf Creek Campground was at 11:24 PM.

Big Creek Campground, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), northwest of Watson Lake, Yukon Territories, Canada

The big creek that is next to Big Creek Campground.

Big Creek Campground, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), northwest of Watson Lake, Yukon Territories, Canada

The Alaska Highway is a long road with not much civilization around.

The Alaska Highway drops back down into BC for a short time around Swan Lake. As it did so, we started to notice some smoke on the horizon in front of us.

Hook Creek Fire, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), near Swan Lake, British Columbia, Canada

As we got closer, it became clear that there was a wildfire not far off of the highway. The BC Wildfire Service calls it the Hook Creek Fire and currently lists it as out of control. The fire started yesterday, July 7th.

If this fire significantly grows while we are northwest of here and starts impacting the highway, that will make it difficult to get back. The two alternatives are to go north to Yukon Hwy 4, or take a ferry south.

Hook Creek Fire, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), across Swan Lake, British Columbia, Canada

While passing the fire, we did not see anybody working on fighting it, but just after passing it, we did finally see a base with a helicopter flying out of it.

Helicopter, Hook Creek Fire, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), near Swan Lake, British Columbia, Canada

We crossed a couple interesting bridges, one over a finger of Teslin Lake and another one over the Yukon River.

Once at camp in Wolf Creek Campground, we had a delicious dinner of sloppy joes.

Wolf Creek Campground, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), Whitehorse, Yukon Territories, Canada

Day 17 - Tuesday July 9th

We spent two nights at Wolf Creek Campground near Whitehorse, YT. We did some exploring around the area and drove a total of 60 miles/97 km today.

Sunrise at Wolf Creek Campground was at 4:49 AM, and sunset was at 11:21 PM.

We had a really nice campsite that was very private from the rest of the campground and had it’s own little creek running across the back of it.

Our first stop was the Klondike Sternwheeler which is on display, high and dry on land, next to the Yukon River in Whitehorse. The historical information posted around it indicated that in its day it was the one of the best sternwheeler.

Next we went to the Yukon Beringia Interpretive Centre, which had some interesting fossils displayed inside, but outside they had a couple very interesting statues. Note that the Giant Beaver that Kenny is standing next to below is depicted in its actual size.

Next door to the Yukon Beringia Interpretive Centre was the Yukon Transportation Museum. While it was not open on the day we were there, we followed a trail from the Beringia museum to the Transportation museum and due to a fence they had taken down we were able to explore the outdoor exhibits.

There were two very interesting exhibits, the first was something resembling an overland train with some very large wheels. I would be very interested in learning more about its history. The second was a DC3 mounted on a pedestal that allowed it to swing in the wind and act as a wind vane. It was very weird to see an object this big swing in the wind.

We then explored a place called Miles Canyon. It had a fun suspension bridge. The most interesting part was that the Yukon River, which is pretty large, narrowed down to a very narrow, deep, and swift flowing river here.

On a drive along the waterfront we found some colorful floatplanes in the sun.

Floatplanes, Schwatka Lake, Yukon River, Whitehorse, Yukon Territories, Canada

While we were camping at Big Creek Campground, Deneen had talked to a couple old geezers who recommended that we visit the Yukon Brewery in Whitehorse. The Yukon Brewery is both a distillery and a brewery. We started out first with a tasting pour of three of their whisky’s and then moved on to four of their beers. We forgot to take a photo of the whisky but we did buy a bottle of their Release 44, which has been going fast. We then tried four of their beers and found them interesting but did not purchase any.

While driving around town we discovered that the ghost of the Starship Enterprise was hovering over us to protect us.

Ghost of Starship Enterprise?, Whitehorse, Yukon Territories, Canada

Back at the campground, after a dinner of brats and chili along with some wine and possibly some of that Release 44…

Steve, Wolf Creek Campground, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), Whitehorse, Yukon Territories, Canada

Day 18 - Wednesday July 10th

Today we drove from Wolf Creek Campground in Whitehorse, YT to Oceanside RV Park in Haines, AK, for a total of 256 miles/414 km.

Sunrise this morning at Wolf Creek Campground was 4:50 AM, and sunset here in Haines, AK is 10:08 PM. Keep in mind that we went a fair distance south to get to Haines, so the sunset is earlier than we have been seeing, but more importantly we are on Alaska time which is an hour earlier.

Upon leaving this morning, we headed west on the Alaska Highway towards Haines Junction, YT.

Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), east of Haines Junction, Yukon Territories, Canada

We have been seeing a lot of these flowers in bloom.

Boreal Sweet-vetch, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), east of Haines Junction, Yukon Territories, Canada

Once we reached Haines Junction, YT we turned south on the Haines Highway which starts as Hwy 3 going through the Yukon Territories, before getting back into British Columba. Once the Haines Highway crosses the US boarder into Alaska it turns to Hwy 7.

The drive was very scenic running though some high mountain passes with dramatic mountain views with lots of snow and glaciers on both sides of us. The low clouds gave it a very moody feeling.

We had an easy border crossing into Alaska.

Approaching US Border Crossing, Haines Highway (Hwy 3), British Columbia, Canada

Once we were down off the mountains and near the coast, the character of the landscape changed significantly.

Haines Highway (Hwy 7), Alaska

Upon reaching Haines, we checked into our ocean side campsite at Ocean Side RV Park. Of course, at Haines, we are deep in Chilkoot Inlet and still a long ways from the open ocean.

Day 19 - Thursday July 11th

We spent a second night in Haines, Alaska and did some exploring around the area. We drove a total of 50 miles / 80 km.

Sunrise today at Haines was 4:08 AM, and sunset was 10:06 PM. Other than being farther south than we were in Canada, part of the reason for the earlier times is that Haines is on Alaska time which is an hour earlier.

Below are a couple photos taken from the rear of our trailer, at low tide. During high tide the water comes right up to the bank.

We started our exploring by driving north along Lutak road next to Lutak Inlet.

Along the way we spotted the Haines/Skagway ferry leaving Haines headed towards Skagway.

Haines/Skagway Ferry

Of course, to get the best shot I stood on my new aluminum tonneau cover.

Steve taking a photo of the Haines/Skagway Ferry

Below is a photo from the north end of the Lutak Inlet looking south towards Haines.

Bottom of Lutak Inlet looking south towards Haines, AK

From the north end of Lutak Inlet, there is a road that continues north along the Chilkoot River towards the Chilkoot Lake State Recreation Area. Along this road we found some excellent looking fishing spots for both humans and bears.

The first photo below shows a number of fishermen. However several signs along the way indicated that this was a favorite spot for both black bears and grizzly bears to fish. We did not see any. But there was one short section that must be a favorite bear crossing of the road since there were signs that said no stopping or even standing.

Next to the bear crossing is a weir across the river that is used to count the salmon going upstream.

Another view of our campsite in Haines.

View of RV Park and Haines from the North

After driving north from Haines along the Lutak Inlet we drove south along one of the branches of the Chilkat Inlet.

Wild Alaskan Salmon Haines Packing Co., Letnikof Cove, Chilkat Inet, near Haines, Alaska

The southern most part of our drive ended at Chilkat State Park. The dirt road out to it was “very” rutted and bumpy. However, when we made it to the end we were rewarded with a beautiful look at the Chilkat Range with an excellent view of the Rainbow Glacier and some impressive waterfalls coming off of it.

Haines Range & Rainbow Glacier, from Chilkat State Park, near Haines, Alaska

The Chilkat State Park had a campground, that I would pay money to be the camp host at. First, the road into it is so bad, that there can not be that many people coming to it, and second, look at the beautiful cabin with a view (see above), in the photo below, that they get to stay in.

Camp Host Cabin, Chilkat State Park Campground, near Haines, Alaska

There was a Fort Seward in Haines, although I am not sure how that relates to the town of Seward, AK.

Seward Fort, Haines, Alaska

As we were driving around Haines, we looked down the arm of Chilkat Inlet towards Skagway, and I was surprised that we could see a cruise ship docked in Skagway.

Looking down Skagway branch of Chilkat Inlet, from Haines, Alaska

Later, we saw two cruise ships leave the Skagway branch of the Chilkat Inlet heading towards open ocean. Notice the eagle in the lower left watching the cruise ship as well.

Cruise Ship heading towards open ocean from Skagway, Alaska, looking from Haines, Alaska

Back in the very small downtown of Haines, we visited the Haines Brewery and had some very nice beers. The owner must have some humor though, because notice the red sign posted above the door that says “BEER FOR SALE BY OWNER”. There were a lot of buildings in town that have red signs saying “BUILDING FOR SALE BY OWNER”. Interestingly they only took cash at this brewery and they only served in a 5 oz or 12 oz glass, or a growler, they would not provide a taste pour.

Haines Brewery, Haines, Alaska

Deneen took the photo below of Kenny, that includes the Haines/Skagway ferry, our trailer, our dinner restaurant, and a totem pole in the background.

Kenny, Haines, Alaska

For dinner we went to the Lighthouse restaurant which was only a few feet from our trailer, the only decision was which direction around the building was the shortest to the front door.

The Halibut fish and chips was excellent, but of course Kenny had to have a New York Strip. The place was busy with both locals and tourists.

After dinner we walked out on one of the breakwaters for the marina and got yet another view of our campsite. Restaurant on the left, campsite in the middle and RV park clubhouse on the right.

Lighthouse Restaurant and Oceanside RV Park, from Marina, Haines, Alaska

After Diane and Deneen went back to the trailer, Kenny and I walked through the marina. I found my dream boat for exploring by boat, see photos below.

Day 20 - Friday July 12th

Today we traveled from Oceanside RV Park in Haines, AK to Kathleen Lake Campground in Kluane National Park. We drove a 135 miles/217 km.

We had another easy border crossing going back in to Canada.

Canadian Border Crossing, Haines Highway (Hwy 7), Alaska

It was low clouds and damp as we got back up into the mountains on the Haines Highway as we made our way north again.

Below is an image of one of the glaciers along the drive.

Mt Kelsall, Haines Highway (Hwy 3), British Columbia, Canada

For the highest part of the drive through the mountains, there are not a lot of trees, and I noticed only one lone cabin.

I thought the three very sharp ridges on Dalton Peak, shown below, were interesting.

Dalton Peak, Haines Highway (Hwy 3), Yukon Territories, Canada

Kathleen Lake Campground has nice sites with lots of privacy between sites.

Kathleen Lake Campground, Kluane National Park, Haines Highway (Hwy 3), Yukon Territories, Canada

The campground is a fair walk from the lake, but Kenny and I did the hike and found a beautiful lake with Kings Throne Peak dominating part of it. The lake is much bigger than shown in the photo below.

Note the trail zig-zagging its way up the rock tongue into the crater. The trailhead sign suggested it was 10 km and a six hour hike. Kenny and I passed on the hike…

Kings Throne Peak, Kathleen Lake, Kluane National Park, Haines Highway (Hwy 3), Yukon Territories, Canada

Dinner was pasta and sauce.

Kathleen Lake Campground, Kluane National Park, Haines Highway (Hwy 3), Yukon Territories, Canada

In case anyone thinks I am the one drinking up all the bourbon…

Kathleen Lake Campground, Kluane National Park, Haines Highway (Hwy 3), Yukon Territories, Canada

Day 21 - Saturday July 13th

Today we headed from Kathleen Lake Campground, YT to Lake Creek Campground, YT. We drove a total of 154 miles/248 km today.

Sunrise at Kathleen Lake Campground was 4:10 AM and sunset at Lake Creek Campground was 11:25 PM.

We headed off on a nice, partly sunny, day looking towards Mount Archibald, with Haines Junction a little off to the right in the foreground but not visible in this photo.

Mount Archibald, Haines Highway (Hwy 3), near Haines Junction, Yukon Territories, Canada

Shortly before we reached Kluane Lake we found that a rare occurrence happened, which is that a a labeled “scenic” viewpoint actually had a view of something other than brush or trees. So we pulled over and had a nice view of Mount Cairnes and Vulcan Mountain in the distance over the top of a small unnamed lake in the foreground.

Mount Cairnes & Vulcan Mountain, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), Yukon Territories, Canada

Then of course here is me trying to get the best view I can get from the location.

Steve Photographing Mount Cairnes, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), Yukon Territories, Canada

Another view into the mountains from the highway at the south end of Kluane Lake.

Kluane National Park and Preserve, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), Yukon Territories, Canada

Fortunately we did not collide with any sheep.

South End of Kluane Lake, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), Yukon Territories, Canada

I thought that this view of the flanks of Williscoft Peak was very colorful.

Williscoft Peak, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), Yukon Territories, Canada

Yet another view of glacier topped mountains.

Mt Hoge, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), Yukon Territories, Canada

The drive today on the Alaska Highway northwest of Haines Junction was rough, sections of it were nothing but gravel, and many other sections were very rough roads that required slowing way down or major bounces of the trailer (yes that happened on occasion).

But finally we were almost to camp and Lucy and Snowball were glad to be off the rough road for the day.

Lucy and Snowball just before camp, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), Yukon Territories, Canada

We found a great spot at Lake Creek Campground that allowed Starlink to work well.

Lake Creek Campground, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), Yukon Territories, Canada

We had a nice Chicken sausage stir-fry and salad for dinner tonight.

Dinner, Lake Creek Campground, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), Yukon Territories, Canada

We did discover that the rough road today resulted in one casualty in the trailer. The drawer that holds the cast iron pots & pans pulled most of the staples out of the bottom of the drawer so that it would not open or close. We pulled remaining staples out and added some wood glue and then tried to put the staples back in place with a pair of pliers and a hammer. We were only partially successful, so we have left the drawer empty until we can get some brads to reinforce it.

Drawer Repair, Lake Creek Campground, Alaska Highway (Hwy 1), Yukon Territories, Canada

Steven Ginn
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2024 Alaska Road Trip (Week 4)
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2024 Alaska Road Trip (Week 2)